STRATEGY SESSION: I minimize fat and calories in this recipe (and maximize flavor) by using my pooling oil technique.  It allows me to get the most out of my garlic and parsley. Since the same technique is employed in the marinara sauce, the benefits are–at the very least– doubled.

This recipe is on the launching pad for Recipe of the Week, but I’m delaying lift-off because it has a flaw- -and that flaw lies in the clams. I know what you’re thinking: the fault, (dear?) Deborah,  is not in our clams, but in ourselves.  Of course, you’re  right!

Here’s the problem: The first 6 times I made this zesty Italian fish soup, I steamed the clams in ½ cup wine in a large covered skillet. The steaming process left me with ¼ cup of strained steaming liquid which I later added to the marinara sauce along with the remaining ½ cup wine. Unfortunately, the 7th time I made it, all of the wine boiled out during the steaming process and I scorched my skillet. So, in trial #8, I steamed the clams in a medium skillet, but the wine boiled over and made a huge mess.

Clearly I have work to do, and—if you’re game—I’d love your help. We have 2 variables we can manipulate: cooking vessel size and the amount of wine used to steam the clams. One way or another, I must end up with ¾ cup of [wine + steaming liquid] before I make the sauce. I do have some wiggle room because I can add extra wine to the steaming liquid to reach  a pre-sauce volume of ¾ cup. My strategy is to steam the clams in all of the wine (i.e. 1 cup) in my original large skillet. That’s how I’ve written the recipe below, but I can’t guarantee success. If it works, on to Recipe of the Week; if not, my zuppa will remain on the launching pad.

Serving suggestions: All you need is a simple salad with a vinaigrette dressing and some crusty whole grain bread. (The carbohydrate content of the zuppa is so low that even a serious carb counter can enjoy some with this meal.)

Note: Due to the variability in salt content among clams and brands of clam juice, it’s impossible to specify the exact amount of salt to be added to this recipe. But any zuppa di pesce worthy of its name must taste of the sea and salt is essential to that. Use it to bring up the flavors so that they’re big and bold.

Zuppa di Pesce

• 1 pound littleneck clams (about 13), well scrubbed
• 1 cup dry white wine, plus more if needed
• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon minced flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish
• 2 teaspoons minced garlic
• ¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
• 1 pound squid, cleaned, bodies cut into ½ inch rings, tentacles left whole (extra-long tentacles cut into 2 inch lengths)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 cups marinara sauce, preferably homemade
• 1 cup bottled clam juice
• 1 pound skinless firm white fish fillets, such as halibut or tilapia, cut into 1 inch pieces

1. Place the clams and the wine in a large deep skillet or Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid. Turn the heat to high and cover tightly. Cook 5 minutes and transfer any open clams to a bowl. Continue cooking the remaining clams 1 to 2 minutes longer, checking often and removing them as they open. Discard any unopened clams.

2. Wet a paper towel, squeeze out the water, and use it to line a sieve. Pour the clam steaming liquid through the lined sieve into a bowl or measuring cup. If you have less than ¾ cup, add more wine to bring it up to that volume. Set aside.

3. Heat a large deep nonstick skillet over medium heat and add the oil in a little pool. Do not spread it around. When it is hot, add the parsley, garlic, and pepper flakes to the pool and cook about 1 minute, stirring gently to coat without dispersing the oil. When the garlic mixture is fragrant, spread it over the entire pan.

4. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the squid, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring and tossing often, until almost opaque, 2 minutes to 3 minutes until slightly firm while still remaining tender. Remove from heat and use a slotted spoon to transfer the squid to a bowl, leaving behind as much of the garlic-parsley mixture as possible.

5. Add the marinara sauce to the skillet along with the clam juice and the strained steaming liquid. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer uncovered until slightly thickened, about 12 minutes.

6. Season the halibut lightly with salt and pepper and add to the skillet. Cook, gently turning the pieces once or twice, about 3 minutes until almost cooked through. Add the reserved squid and clams and cook, stirring occasionally, about 2 minutes until just heated through. Do not overcook. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately in shallow bowls, garnished with parsley if desired.

Makes 6 servings

Per serving: Calories 258, 7 g total fat, 1 g saturated fat, 210 mg cholesterol, 9 g total carbohydrate, 1 g dietary fiber, 32 g protein, 242 mg sodium.